Saturday, June 22, 2013

Rochas Les Cascades Songe d'Iris (2013): Blue Lotus


Les Cascades Songe d'Iris is the second installment in the new series begun last year by Rochas consecrated in part to expanding the influence and heritage of their 1970 creation by Michel Manounas, Eau de Rochas, a modern classic. Today's in-house perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez stated that he thought about going back to the place of origin of the fountain of Apollo in Delphi which informed the now matricial creation. A mythological transfer has taken place from the Greek source to Parisian public fountain. Eclats d'Agrumes in particular was about a joyous take on the theme while Songe d'Iris is supposed to be calmer and convey an impression of serenity like the one you can experience when you happen on a quieter corner of the capital city....

Paris is full of forgotten nooks and crannies. It is that more intimate aspect of the city the perfume is meant to capture rather than its window-shopping aspect reflecting the worldwide famous silhouettes of iconic monuments.

Olfactorily speaking, Les Cascades Songe d'Iris reprises part of the signature of Eclats d'Agrumes for continuity while expressing a new atmosphere on that familiar base line. The note of iris can be more reflective, moodier and dreamier than its hesperidic counterparts, and also more elegant although this is certainly debatable as a dry hesperidic perfume can be very understated instead of bursting with vitality, and thanks to this very restraint, elegant.

Duriez added a floral facet that is unusual, a note of water lily which he likes to stress is not usually seen in perfumery. It appears however mentioned for L'Eau d'Issey Homme and is also alluded to in the composition Guerlain Flora Nymphea and Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus; Scents of Time Nénufar features it; Lobogal pour Elle, Gap Stay, Aftelier Secret Garden also; Lavanila Passion Fruit uses it as an aphrodisiac in one of their their best-selling perfumes.

The French nose here specifies that it is a daydream about water lily called nénuphar or lotus in French. The color of the advert shot by Giampaolo Sgura and featuring actress Olivia Palermo evokes the mauve color of the paintings of water lilies by Monet.

With its conspicuous mix of Eau de Cologne spirit and barbershop fougère relying on a lavender kick, it plays on a dual level of invigorating accords, something that we translated as feeling like a "tweedy cologne" in the case of Chloé Eau de Fleurs Néroli. The overall result however is not really unisex but more feminine with a suggestion of brash masculinity. This makes it a good scent in our estimation for everyday wear and for active life. It's like getting a little shot of Testosterone in perfume form, without needing to have to shave superfluous hair.

Rest of the review 

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